Friday, October 2, 2015

OZ5: Port Douglas (fourth bit)

As my parents’ visit was coming closer and closer, I started to get nervous, but not for the reason you might think.  Sure, I was excited and thought I should be excited to see them, but my brain was having an argument with itself that I should be more excited.  I was worried I wouldn’t be thrilled enough when they showed up!
 
I was very, very glad to have almost the entire time my parents would be here off from both jobs.  I had originally wanted to work a few days, just so I could still be making money, but the time with them was worth much more than the money I could make.

We went down to Gary and Sue’s place to stay with them and pick my parents up from the airport.  Gary graciously drove us to the airport and I was antsy, still nervous about my emotions at seeing them.  But then they came around the corner and I was so relieved to see them.  I would still have a crisis in the next day or so where I went to bed feeling like I wasn’t allowing myself to be as emotionally close to them as I should be.  Poor Joe doesn’t understand moments like that, but he still manages to support me.  Of course I felt better and felt emotionally close again after only a short time.
First hugs!
They look travel-worn,
but about as happy to see me as I was to see them.
We got the rental car the next morning and did a few errands around Cairns.  My parents hit it off really well with Gary and Sue from the very beginning, which made me exceedingly happy, since we think the world of all four of them.
Seeing the Curtain Fig
We already booked a reef trip for the best weather, so after going to Port Douglas long enough for me to work a shift and Joe to work a couple of shifts, we headed back down to Cairns to be ready for the boat.  I had done a lot of research and while they say that the Great Barrier Reef is sometimes better from Port Douglas, the live-aboard ships in a reasonable price range left from Cairns.  We decided on the three day, two night reef trip, which we were very excited for.  Having done the day trip before, this overnight thing would be new and novel!  We even decided to spend the extra money for my mom and dad and I to get the dive package.  Sadly, the dive package for Joe, since he was not certified, was going to be too expensive for not much benefit, but he dealt with that like a champ and was very happy for us.

Gary dropped us at the harbor on the morning of and we boarded the boat.  We were going out on the same boat that we went on the day trip with, but we would be switching vessels once out on the reef.  We were given coffee and a small breakfast in the elite room at the top of the boat.  It was a very different feel from the trip we had done before.

Mom and Joe both did the seasickness patch that lasts for three days.  I considered it as well, since I had felt a little queasy on boats recently and didn’t want to have my first seasickness on a trip that was three days.  Unfortunately, my mom had only two patches and they had already attached theirs by the time I voiced my interest in having one for myself.  It turns out I never did get sick, so I’m actually glad they both had attached them so that they wouldn’t feel guilty and give it to me when I didn’t really need it and they both did.  I take after my dad and neither he nor I have ever had any real seasickness ever.  And the patches must have worked because my mom and Joe felt fine the whole time.

The day boat pulled up alongside our live-aboard out on the reef and those of us who were in the captain’s cabin filed over to the other boat and went and sat down at the round tables in the main parlor area.  Here the crew came and welcomed us, assigned us our rooms, and let us get settled in before the morning dive.  Being the cheapskates that we are, all four of us were sleeping down “in steerage with the hogs,” as we put it.  This was the cheapest of the three types of rooms, but honestly it was incredibly comfortable.  The rooms were only meant for three people, so my mom and dad were in one room together and Joe and I, as well as one other girl by herself were in another room.  The bunks were very comfy.

The shower was small, but it put out a LOT of great hot water.  The room was small and maybe if we had been spending a lot of time reading or hanging out, we could have gotten one of the nicer rooms, but we were on the Great Barrier Reef to see the Great Barrier Reef, so the room was absolutely perfect as it was.

We got into swimming suits and went upstairs for an orientation.  My parents haven’t dived since they were on their honeymoon, I think, which was over 30 years ago.  But they didn’t mention this when we were going around the group introducing ourselves.  Hehe.  They used vague terms and said, “We are certified, but haven’t done a dive for several years…”  Several, of course, really meant 32 years, even though it suggested perhaps 3-5 years.

We were all really glad to have a nice orientation for this reason.  Other than the quick dive that I did on the day trip to the reef, I hadn’t dived since my certification course, which was a good 5 years ago.  The basics are still the same no matter if you were certified 30+ years ago or last week, but I think we were all happy to have a little reintroduction to all the little details.

My parents looked as nervous as I felt, but after getting our gear on (wetsuit, BCD, mask, snorkel) we walked down to the platform on the back of the boat.  We put fins on and got ready to step in the water how they said to do it (holding the oxygen and mask to our faces, with BCDs fully inflated), and we stepped in!

I was so glad to have a mooring line to go down on.  We didn’t have this in my course, probably because the course was land-based, but it makes all the difference.  When you’re still working out the BCD and your buoyancy, having a line to hold onto to ascend and descend helps to prevent problems.

We awkwardly descended, each at different speeds.  We took it very easy at this point because there would be many more dives and so doing it right, even if it took more time seemed like the most important thing.  My mom and I descended pretty well, but my dad seemed to be having troubles.  He was trying to let as much air out of the BCD as possible, but he would sometimes start to rise up and would have to try all over again.

Finally he got himself closer to the ocean floor, but he was having to hold on to things to keep from rising.  He seemed frustrated.  He couldn’t get enough air out of the BCD.  He looked ready to give up, but I pointed to him and to mom, and then mimed clasping hands, hoping that mom had enough weight to keep him down.  I imagine the divers on the boat that choose a weight belt probably guess at your weight.  I think they would have guessed dad right, except that he probably takes after his mother, whose bones seemed to be hollow.  This was a suspicion we all had because she had a hard time sitting in the hot tub with us because she would float.

My parents did great.  Other than the tendency to float, they did a stellar job, especially after not doing it for a “number of years.”  :)

Dad eventually got frustrated and motioned that he was going to go up, so mom and I continued to explore a bit, still taking it easy.  Right off the bat I think we saw a shark, which is super cool, but a little intimidating.  They’re only reef sharks, so they are very little and not aggressive, but there is still a bit of fear in your body when one weaves by easily.

It was sooooo nice to feel confident diving.  It hasn’t ever been something I was gung-ho confident at, probably because I had never been great at buoyancy.

The first lunch was amazing—a chicken salad that was piled high with veggies and chicken, with an amazing dressing.  It was so perfect.  We would have a good few days.

Since we were doing the trip in the middle of the week instead of the weekend, there was plenty of space in the boat.  No shoes were ever worn, which was freeing, and the boat was just the right size for the number of people there were.  I wouldn’t have wanted to see it in busy season though.  I’ll bet it gets way too small in the busy season.

The crew was very laid-back, which made all the difference as well.  You could see that there was a sort of low-key popularity contest going on at all times, but only just.  This minor popularity contest reminded me of stories an old flame had brought back after working in a dive shop.  The atmosphere on the live-aboard was so different from the day trip boat we had done all those months ago.

The day was jam-packed with water sessions and meals, which was just perfect.  By the second water session, dad had asked for a couple more weights to put on his weight belt to help with the floating problem.

Dinner was phenomenal that first night, and afterward we had a small orientation for the night dive that we would be doing!  The idea of diving at night made me very nervous.  I’m afraid of unseen things in the water (something I will forever thank my brother Dave for), so the idea of swimming around with only the light of a flashlight made me panic a bit.  But there was no way I was paying for that and then not doing it.

We were issued our flashlights and told to go get ready.  Joe wished me luck.  There was no snorkel session in the dark for him, obviously.  And I’m not sure he would have gone out had there been a night snorkel session, since the sharks really come out at night.

We all pretty much stayed in one of two groups, since it was easier to get lost and disoriented in the dark.  We saw the green glinting eyes of the sharks in the darkness right away.  It was eerie, but they didn’t seem bothered by us, so I just tried to calm down as much as I could.  We saw a turtle or two, plenty of sharks, and a few fish here and there.  As we ascended at the end, I looked out under the boat and saw many gleaming green eyes and shadows circling those of us reaching the dive platform.

By the end of the night dive I was elated.  It was such an out-of-my-comfort-zone thing and I did it!  I was so proud.  And Joe was proud of me too, which was sweet as could be.

You see more of the big-ticket animals at night (sharks and turtles), but you lose the colors and the fish blend in a lot easier.  It makes it almost boring, but for the danger aspect.

Over the next couple of days we got in and out of our swimsuits, ate, swam, and dived.  I managed to do all ten dives that I was allotted that came with the package.  Mom did nine and dad did eight.  Dad ended up having trouble with his ear and left the last couple of dives alone as he hoped the ear would get better.
We tried the ear candle out of desperation for my poor poppa,
and learned later that it has no evidence for efficacy,
plus it can even be dangerous!  Oops!
The dives now blur together for the most part, but a few things stand out.  On one dive the three of us headed off in the direction we thought the reef was, following the wall of reef.  It went well, but eventually we realized we were a bit lost and we were not able to navigate back to anything recognizable.  I signaled to my parents to stay down and I would go slowly to the surface and look around to see where the boat was.  I ascended fairly slowly, but when I got to the surface I realized we were way too far from the boat.  Somehow we had followed the wall under and then in front of the boat and the trip back was going to take a while.

When I got back down to my parents I signaled the direction we should go and we set off swimming.  We were swimming for a while in this direction that I hoped was right, but eventually our time ran out.  Our dives were supposed to be 45 minutes or less, or at a certain pressure level left in the tank.  So we slowly went to the surface.  I noticed mom went a little faster.  When my parents saw how far we were from the boat still, we started the slow swim back.  Mom had to switch to the snorkel and then yelled at me that she was going to head to the glass-bottom boat, which was closer.  I could hear the panic in her voice, so I went to her.  She had run out of air and her snorkel wasn’t working.  She was panicked because she had no way to breathe!

I was worried for her, but I stayed as calm as I could and told her everything would be okay.  I pulled the emergency breathing apparatus that everyone has attached to the tank and gave it to her.  We would both breathe off of my tank.  I gave her my arm and we slowly made our way to the back of the boat.  It took forever, but I am glad we got there without either of us getting any more panicked.

As it turned out, mom’s BCD and tank were taken at the beginning of the dive by someone, probably by accident, so they gave her a different one to use.  This was really annoying to have to try to do the same shit with different equipment, even if the difference in the equipment was minor.  It’s certainly possible that she had run out of air so fast because there was something different about this different BCD.  She was mad that they had given away her BCD to someone else.

She sat the next one out and I don’t blame her.  I think it was a little scary for her.  It was scary for me because I realized that I still don’t have much grip on underwater navigation.  That will be my next study.

The dive that mom snorkeled turned out to be a good one because my dad and I found the underwater photographer and a sea turtle at the same time.  Typically I don’t bother buying the roller coaster photo and things like that, probably just because I was raised that way.  But this photo was too good.  Of course, my dad and I both looked like goons, but we’re goons next to a happy sea turtle munching on coral.  Pretty cool.  We bought a few other photos from the photographer, which ended up being a really fun experience because all four of us joked and laughed with the guy.  It was fun.

On another dive my mom and I were out together with this other girl who tagged along.  She was a much better diver than either of us, but she was patient with us.  At one point I noticed that my dad’s underwater camera that I had been using was shutting itself off and the plastic covering on the screen was bent inward.  The girl motioned for us to come up to her height and I realized that we were WAY below the depth that we were certified to dive to.  The camera was shutting itself off and the screen was concave because of the immense pressure that occurs the deeper you go.  Oops!

I felt really bad about that one.  I mean, sure, I think mom and I generally think we are do-it-ourself-ers, but going against regulations like that was a bad move, especially where it wasn’t just a little bit over, but actually kind of a lot.  The numbers escape me now, but it was definitely an oops.  I apologized to the lady who was basically the hostess and crew manager.

On our second night as dinner was being made for us, someone said hey, there are sharks out here.  Turns out that the grey water from the kitchen sink, while filtered, still let some residue of meat and vegetables drain out with the water.  Basically the kitchen was accidentally chumming the sharks.  We would be getting into that water with those sharks in a matter of an hour or two.  Woohoo!

I was reminded on every dive of that game on N64 where you are a gecko, I think?  There is an underwater level and I think of it every time I dive.

At the end of a snorkel session I did with Joe, he was having a hard time getting his wetsuit off and so I was trying to help and his arm suddenly squelched free of the arm and he elbowed me right in the nose.  It was so hard that it brought tears to my eyes, though it didn’t really hurt that much.  I think it was just alarming to get a jab to the face like that.  He felt so bad.

We had such a great time.  All the meals were excellent, we got lots of water time, the weather—while admittedly grey and windy—turned out to be perfect.  Far North Queensland was hellishly hot normally, so it was actually nice to get out of the water and not have the sun beating down so hard on you.  The ship was air-conditioned, so we were always comfortable.

The crew was so much more laid back compared to our first reef trip.  It seemed like the elite boat, where the divers could relax and form more bonds with everyone.

And the whole thing was comparably so cheap too.  Two nights’ accommodation, three meals a day, and ten dives.  Had we stayed at a hotel in Australia, two nights would have cost around at least 2/3rds of the price alone, and this was all inclusive.  I sort of sound like I’m a salesman, but I was just impressed that it could be done for such a good price.  Expensive for every day, sure, but to see the Great Barrier Reef, one of the wonders of the world, it was a great deal.  And such an awesome way to do it.  So relaxed being rocked to sleep at night by the waves, hanging out in the lounge on coffee breaks.

Rant over.  :)
While not Jaws, those were definitely sharks.
I would be getting into that water in an hour!
Mom and I watching the ocean
Shade is so nice to find in that part of the world
Lamb hock--
have I mentioned how gourmet meals on the boat were?
Mom and I in the lounge room onboard
It looks like we're dancing, which we sort of are,
but I like to think the turtle is joining in--look at his mooooooves!
Besides the dive trip, we spent about half the time at Gary and Sue’s and half the time in Port Douglas.  Drew had been so kind as to stay at a friend’s house while my parents were around, but towards the end he came home and so we were able to drag a mattress into the laundry room and sleep in there for a night.  It would have been another night as well, but we decided the atmosphere at the house, thanks to an unnecessary blow-up by Miles at us over something that was not our fault, we decided to spend a night at the Daintree Rainforest in a hotel.  It was a weird little hotel—cheap, but odd.

While we were there, we were lucky enough to see a cassowary as it stalked in the woods by the road.  It was a much better view of one than we had seen in all our months there.  Then later there was a moment where my mom and dad went on ahead and we were left behind a bit and I rounded the corner and there was a cassowary coming under the boardwalk.  I filmed and followed it slowly, to find that it had a young one along with it!  They say that the males raise the babies, so it must have been a male and a few months’ old baby.  That footage is very precious in our family now.  :)
One of the last days that my parents were in Australia with us, I called Gary and Sue to come up to Port Douglas and the five of us (Joe had to work) went to Breakfast with the Birds.  It was a surprise for mom, since it would be her birthday just after they left us. I love surprises.  It was a really fun visit all of us together.
Hungry, hungry wallaby!
Breakfast with the Birds
We grabbed Joe for lunch, but Gary and Sue begged out, rather confusingly.   We would learn later that Sue had a malignant tumor in her leg, and looking back now I think they might have been stressed about that.  We instead met Lachie and Freja at the Surf Club and had a very pleasant time there.  Lachie and Freja are great people, but for some reason (probably it’s me, since I’m a social moron) it seems like when it is the four of us, at least one of us is having an off day and our energies don’t jive well.  But lunch that day we were all in great moods and conversation flowed surprisingly well.

It was really sad to say goodbye to my parents again.  I cried on and off the whole way home to Port Douglas.  It was pretty hard.  I was just so thankful to get to see them.  I love seeing family.
Thanks for visiting, mom and dad!

No comments: